OT: HVAC AC Pros

[NikkiSixx]

ac doesn't come on, and internal house blower motor does not turn on, in the on position, turn it back to auto.

replaced capacitor with another one (not the same, but all I could find, with 45/5 for dual use)

Turn all breakers back on (none had been tripped) and nothing.

Replaced battery in thermostat, ended up junking the thermostat and buying a new one.. put that in, with new batteries, and nothing. Thermostat calling for cool.

Order a new blower motor assembly.. while waiting for it to arrive, it's been 4 + days, I am running a portable AC unit in the interim, when all of a sudden, the ac, which has been in the on position and calling for cool for 4 days, all of a sudden starts working.

Thoughts?

 

[WHCSC]

You fixed it

 

[NikkiSixx]

You fixed it

as it sat for 4 days? I don't think so.. yes, I'm grateful it started working, but now I don't trust it, why did it fail and sit there for 4 days laughing at me.

 

[4.6.3]

ac doesn't come on, and internal house blower motor does not turn on, in the on position, turn it back to auto.

replaced capacitor with another one (not the same, but all I could find, with 45/5 for dual use)

Turn all breakers back on (none had been tripped) and nothing.

Replaced battery in thermostat, ended up junking the thermostat and buying a new one.. put that in, with new batteries, and nothing. Thermostat calling for cool.

Order a new blower motor assembly.. while waiting for it to arrive, it's been 4 + days, I am running a portable AC unit in the interim, when all of a sudden, the ac, which has been in the on position and calling for cool for 4 days, all of a sudden starts working.

Thoughts?

Was it running continuously for a while before it quit? Did you notice if any of the condensate lines were iced up?

 

[4.6.3]

as it sat for 4 days? I don't think so.. yes, I'm grateful it started working, but now I don't trust it, why did it fail and sit there for 4 days laughing at me.

It could be SO many different stupid little things. Do you own a multimeter? Not a Menards meter.. I’m talking a legit meter.

 

[SuperBigFan69]

Was it running continuously for a while before it quit? Did you notice if any of the condensate lines were iced up?

This is probably it...

There is also a chance that the fan is dying.

 

[cubsker15]

Look who's working together to solve home improvement issues.

 

[SuperBigFan69]

Look who's working together to solve home improvement issues.

HVAC...more like HVAG! Right, Right?

 

[WTFMatt]

Keep an eye on it. If it stops working again, you may very well have a refrigerant leak in the evaporator coil. It could have frozen the coil and just took awhile to dethaw.

 

[NikkiSixx]

Was it running continuously for a while before it quit? Did you notice if any of the condensate lines were iced up?

I didn't notice anything like that. It quit early in the morning, around 7:30 am.

The first thing I did was take a shop vac to the drain line, using my hand to make a seal, to suck out anything that might be clogged.

That didn't seem to help, although I did get about a gallon of slime water out of the line.

 

[NikkiSixx]

It could be SO many different stupid little things. Do you own a multimeter? Not a Menards meter.. I’m talking a legit meter.

I just purchased a new multimeter, strictly to get the capacitance feature, as my cheap one doesn't have it.

Old Capacitor measures 5.12 on fan side, herm side 43.40

I think it's okay, although it is out of the unit at the moment. mfg stamped with 0422, so I assume it was made in april of 2022 and replaced sometime in late 2022+

 

[NikkiSixx]

This is probably it...

There is also a chance that the fan is dying.

blower fan spins freely.. outside compressor fan spins freely

Blower fan does make a groaning noise on startup.

 

[NikkiSixx]

Keep an eye on it. If it stops working again, you may very well have a refrigerant leak in the evaporator coil. It could have frozen the coil and just took awhile to dethaw.

is there anything I can do to get ahead of this or to be more proactive?

I assume if I call a guy to come out to test for leaks, he's going to tell me to replace the unit (mfg in 2016) so it's approx 9 years in service in florida, but I really don't have an extra 8k sitting around to drop on a new system.

It's a goodman system, doesn't appear to be any circuit boards.. there is a transformer i could replace, and the contactor (not sure what it's called) but outside next to the capacitor, is the switch to start the outside compressor.. i could probably replace that part as well, but it seems to function ok from a physical stand point. I can press the contact and it starts the motor, but it's an electrical switching to physical switch I think.

 

[4.6.3]

I didn't notice anything like that. It quit early in the morning, around 7:30 am.

The first thing I did was take a shop vac to the drain line, using my hand to make a seal, to suck out anything that might be clogged.

That didn't seem to help, although I did get about a gallon of slime water out of the line.

Kind of sounds like you have a clog or pinch point that was causing issues. No idea for sure. Have you discharged the old cap?

 

[NikkiSixx]

Kind of sounds like you have a clog or pinch point that was causing issues. No idea for sure. Have you discharged the old cap?

i used a screwdriver against the 3 different contact points before taking out the old cap..

The old cap part number was TRCFD455

The one I put in (currently in) is PRCFD455AR

I have a new replacement TRCFD455, it just took a few days to arrive, but have not put it in yet.

The cap that is in there now, is a little skinnier and taller.. I am not sure what is different between the two, but i took a chance on just matching the 455 and 370-440 voltage spec

Does it take awhile or is there a process to condition a cap to receive current the first time putting it in or something?

 

[4.6.3]

i used a screwdriver against the 3 different contact points before taking out the old cap..

The old cap part number was TRCFD455

The one I put in (currently in) is PRCFD455AR

I have a new replacement TRCFD455, it just took a few days to arrive, but have not put it in yet.

The cap that is in there now, is a little skinnier and taller.. I am not sure what is different between the two, but i took a chance on just matching the 455 and 370-440 voltage spec

Does it take awhile or is there a process to condition a cap to receive current the first time putting it in or something?

Honestly? It depends where you get them. They “shouldn’t” be charged but ya never know. I don’t know a ton about internal condenser parts, but none of this stuff is that difficult with a little research and a basic understanding of how things work. You seem to have a decent grasp. If you have issues after the new cap is in… post again and I will show my lead guy in that area, and he will fix you up. I firmly believe he could fix anything that can be fixed

 

[WTFMatt]

is there anything I can do to get ahead of this or to be more proactive?

I assume if I call a guy to come out to test for leaks, he's going to tell me to replace the unit (mfg in 2016) so it's approx 9 years in service in florida, but I really don't have an extra 8k sitting around to drop on a new system.

It's a goodman system, doesn't appear to be any circuit boards.. there is a transformer i could replace, and the contactor (not sure what it's called) but outside next to the capacitor, is the switch to start the outside compressor.. i could probably replace that part as well, but it seems to function ok from a physical stand point. I can press the contact and it starts the motor, but it's an electrical switching to physical switch I think.

I'm hoping it's not your evaporator coil, because it can cost a few thousand dollars. There is a typical cost/benefit line with an AC and repair costs. At 9 years old, your AC is right on the edge if an evaporator coil is leaking.

If you do have an evaporator coil leak, it might take a while for it to freeze up again. That's why I suggested to keep an eye on it. By that I mean if your AC is struggling to cool. My coil is in my attic with the furnace. It is a pain in the *** to get up there with the the way my home was built (I live in AZ). So, depending on where yours is installed, it may not be easy to check.

Also, another thing that can freeze up lines, compressor, evap coil is clogged filters. When was the last time you changed them?

 

[SuperBigFan69]

Dude, with all the work you have already done and with all the store runs and ordering...it might be time to just bite the bullet. Post on Nextdoor App that you need AC help and some dude that does it for a living will help you out, "off the clock" for a few hundred dollars.

Clearly all of us posting here have no idea what the hell we are talking about it, myself included.

 

[crc_wood]

What was the MFD on your original capacitor? Did you go higher or lower than your original one?

 

[4.6.3]

Replacing the old units sucks. The Freon (yes I know it’s technically not the name anymore) is super expensive. It’s a strain on most middle/low income property owners.

 

[TripleOption67]

To start off with, you need 24 volts from the furnace to the t-stat for anything to work. Changing the battery does nothing for operation. It's just for backup for programming or display purposes.

You said nothing was coming on and ordered an indoor fan motor? The outdoor unit should have come on even if the indoor blower did not. Unless there was no power to the t-stat, 24v. In that case your outdoor contractor would never pull in to fire up the outdoor fan and compressor. The contactor needs that same 24v. If there was no 24v outside, changing the capacitor did nothing.

Now as far as coming on all of the sudden, that's an interesting one. Probably something to do with the furnace control board. Possibly a voltage glitch, static charge, moisture..... . The only other option could be the transformer. It's what produces the 24v for the t-stat & contactor. Possibly overheated or voltage glitch. They usually either work or don't. Normally don't fix themselves.

If it happens again, check for 24v first and go from there.

 

[4.6.3]

To start off with, you need 24 volts from the furnace to the t-stat for anything to work. Changing the battery does nothing for operation. It's just for backup for programming or display purposes.

You said nothing was coming on and ordered an indoor fan motor? The outdoor unit should have come on even if the indoor blower did not. Unless there was no power to the t-stat, 24v. In that case your outdoor contractor would never pull in to fire up the outdoor fan and compressor. The contactor needs that same 24v. If there was no 24v outside, changing the capacitor did nothing.

Now as far as coming on all of the sudden, that's an interesting one. Probably something to do with the furnace control board. Possibly a voltage glitch, static charge, moisture..... . The only other option could be the transformer. It's what produces the 24v for the t-stat & contactor. Possibly overheated or voltage glitch. They usually either work or don't. Normally don't fix themselves.

If it happens again, check for 24v first and go from there.

Yes, and make sure you’re set to AC, not DC. I generally don’t mess with internal stuff on outside condenser units. Most of the transformers I deal with for controls is DC

 

[NikkiSixx]

I'm hoping it's not your evaporator coil, because it can cost a few thousand dollars. There is a typical cost/benefit line with an AC and repair costs. At 9 years old, your AC is right on the edge if an evaporator coil is leaking.

If you do have an evaporator coil leak, it might take a while for it to freeze up again. That's why I suggested to keep an eye on it. By that I mean if your AC is struggling to cool. My coil is in my attic with the furnace. It is a pain in the *** to get up there with the the way my home was built (I live in AZ). So, depending on where yours is installed, it may not be easy to check.

Also, another thing that can freeze up lines, compressor, evap coil is clogged filters. When was the last time you changed them?

I change out the filters every 2-3 months, and use cheap ones that let a lot of air through.. i think it's merv 5 that i use.. the really restrictive ones I think shorten the ac life.

if it happens again, i will def pop the panel off and see if I see any icing or issues on the coil and lines etc..

currently, it is cooling ok, with no more hiccups, so I'm hoping to get through the summer with it as is.

The systems blows cold, so no signs of weak cooling or things like that. I might of had a clog or something that caused the back up.

The safety switch that is supposed to turn the system off if too much water/condensation has been fiddled with by the prior owner, so that while the switch is there, it is mounted in such a way that it will never get activated by water, so maybe the fact that I pulled a good deal of water out, while the switch kept the system on when maybe it should have shut it off, ultimately caused the system to shut itself down? I don't know, but it is my best guess at this point.

The ac unit is mounted in the garage horizontally up high by the ceiling with a drip pan underneath it, that never sees any water since I've been here (1 year).

I appreceate everyone's help and insights.

I'll monitor from here on out.

Thank you everyone!

 

[NikkiSixx]

What was the MFD on your original capacitor? Did you go higher or lower than your original one?

are you asking for the cap manufacture date? if so, the one i pulled out was stamped 0422 (I assume that means April 2022)

I'm just going to let it keep running since it is working now.

 

[NikkiSixx]

Replacing the old units sucks. The Freon (yes I know it’s technically not the name anymore) is super expensive. It’s a strain on most middle/low income property owners.

I bought this place last year and am in the middle of a slow flip remodel with it.. i have to put a new roof on, and yes eventually a new AC unit, and get this, the water heater is a half size thing 30 gal maybe and is 23 years old and still working.. i have to replace that as well.

Since the roof was > 50 years old, the house had to be bought with cash (since it is not insurable) so yeah, managing cash flow is a bit of a concern.

When I get ready to do the roof (next Feb) I wanted to do the AC unit and other stuff at the same time using a 6 month bridge loan.. I already have a roof estimate of 35k.. So, I'm looking at 35+8+2 or around 45 grand to carry until i can get the home on the market.

Edit: forgot, i have to change out all the appliances as well. Add another 5k. lol

 

[crc_wood]

are you asking for the cap manufacture date? if so, the one i pulled out was stamped 0422 (I assume that means April 2022)

I'm just going to let it keep running since it is working now.

No. What was original microfarad of your old capacitor? Was your original a 45/5 MFD?