Lawn care folks....

[missouridawg]

I did a soil sample and got back the following fertilizer recommendations:
1) 0.9 lbs per 1000 square feet of N
2) 2.8 lbs per 1000 square feet of P
3) 2.3 lbs per 1000 square feet of K

Does this mean I need a 10-30-20 fertilizer (which I can find)? Or a 15-45-40 fertilizer (which I can't find)?

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[moturfdog]

Mo dawg
What type of grass do you have in your lawn, and where are you located? If you have an established turf I would for go the P for now or only apply what is in the analysis that you chose, and get the rest of the P later in the year. If you are trying to establish a lawn from seed by all means use a product that is higher in P and K to help the seedling through its germination. A product of equal N to K ratio or even a 1-2 ratio would be good for a warm season turf this time of year, if you are dealing with a cool season grass the optimum time to apply fertilizer with high N has past. Also if you would apply a product that is sulfur coated or polymer coated you will get a longer feed time and better use of the actual element in the product, less leaching and more uptake by the plant.

 

[missouridawg]

I'm in Houston Tx. And I'm an engineer, so I have no clue what kind of grass I have. I have a lot of crab grass or Bermuda grass, too.... not sure how to currently distinguish between the two.

The lawn was laid in 2014 and I've never done anything but water it since then. I'm finally trying to figure out how to grow a nice lawn now.

thanks a ton for the response

 

[ckDOG]

Just throw some Dale's on it.

Nm

 

[missouridawg]

Tried that. Even let the Dales cook a bit in my BGE. Wore a yeti hat, Costas, and a salt life shirt while I spread it out on the lawn. And it still didn't work.

 

[KurtRambis4]

Just have your yard contractor do it*

*

 

[PBRME]

Maybe you should try suing it.

 

[DawgatAuburn]

Duh.....you obviously have mole crickets.

 

[engie]

50 lbs of 10-30-20 yields
5 lbs of nitrogen
15 lbs of phosph
10 lbs of potash

So, one bag should handle 5k sq ft. About 9 bags per acre. I don't know jack about yards, but in the food plot game, PH/lime is the real key to a much greater extent than the fert. Provided you don't just skimp on the fert.

 

[tatedog]

Be advised if you live in Noxapater that the soil, much like the television listings, is very unpredictable.

 

[CochiseCowbell]

Are you rueing your lawn daily? Also there are studies that prove botanical life responds to the human voice. Try reading The Adventures of Foxy Reb to it, with a generous shower of Zima. Test in an inconspicuous corner of your lawn first. You'll know the character of your grass soon enough. It will either wither & die, leaving room for the seeds you want to sow or pretentious pines, bowties, candelabras, & hypocrisy will sprout.

 

[Shamoan]

Crabgrass looks like...a crab...broad leaf with a purple hub that branches out then roots further. Bermuda is thin leaf and browns after it is cut if tall. Thinnest leaf of the most commercially available grasses...st a, centipede, Bermuda from broadest to thinnest.

 

[Shamoan]

Just cross your fingers that cut worms show up**

 

[InTheIttaBenaHotSun]

^^^This right here...hilarious.

As mentioned earlier, pH/Lime are key before putting fertilizer down. Make sure your soil has the right pH for your grass. If bermuda, 6 to 6.5 is where you want to be. Centipede likes a more acid soil. 5 to 5.5.

 

[DesotoCountyDawg]

If you have an established yard then something like a 32-3-8 mix is good. That's what I use. An established yard doesn't need that much phosphorus because the deep roots are already there. If you had just put down sod then more phosphorus would be a good idea to promote good root growth. Putting that much nitrogen down helps feed the grass and give it that nice deep color and there's some potash in there to help with disease prevention.

 

[The Usual Suspect]

I live in Houston, and most of the people I know have St. Augustine.