How is everybody's lawn doing? Ours is mostly great, but that light green quick-growing cool season grass is an abomination. @phs73rc77gsm83 - still nothing us homeowners can buy to eradicate Poa trivialis?
OT: Eternal Lawn Care Thread
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For me, parts of the lawn that were established last year are doing great but areas where I planted new grass this spring are struggling. We've had a lot of rain but it's been cold. I feel like the weather is going to flip to hot and dry before it's had a chance to get rooted.
For the most part my over seeding germinated and filled in pretty well. I have two areas that really did not take and are on the thin side. I just seeded those areas again last week, waiting to see how they fill in.
Acclaim Extra is labeled to “control” triv but I haven’t used it myself for that purpose (I have used it successfully to kill Japanese Stilt grass.). I’ve had some limited success controlling triv with Mesotrione but it’s more effective on Poa Annua. It’s a long story but the preemergent I used in the fall to control winter germinating weeds (e.g. Poa annua) was old and I took a chance with it. Didn’t work and I have lots or PA and spurge so I sprayed Mesotrione, which blocks photosynthesis of targeted weeds and a bit for desired turf grass (e.g., KBG). The latter recovers but there can be bleaching of both so my lawn will look terrible for a few weeks before the KBG overspreads. I’ll spot seed areas that are weak in late August or early September.
Sprayed some RGS today on the lawn. It should get watered in nicely in the next 24 hours. I hope it’s still good/works as it is just over two years old. On YardMastery it says it has a two year shelf life.
I'm keenly interested in the results, as I have remnants of their Bio-Stimulant Pak in my basement. It too is an aged vintage of unicorn pee.
Threw down some Yardmastery Freedom 17-7-6 today. We need some rain now. The lack of it is already taking a toll on my lawn. @rurichdog I did not notice any real results from the vintage unicorn pee
You can put it down now. Depending on the need I put an app down when the forsythia blooms late March or early April) then again mid June, then early September for fall/winter germinating weeds. Check the label for what you’re using as well as dosage (this will help you determine the interval.)
I watered my lawn a few times but after being so rain-drunk all spring, a slight taste of hot & dry and my lawn is now extra crispy. Looks like I'm done throwing down for a few months
Without an irrigation system it’s tuff to keep it going throughout the summer. I wish I had one.I watered my lawn a few times but after being so rain-drunk all spring, a slight taste of hot & dry and my lawn is now extra crispy. Looks like I'm done throwing down for a few months
Maybe you are the wrong person to ask. Thinking about doing my own fertilizing next year. I need enough to cover 15-20,000 square feet. Is there a place in Monmouth that is not a box store where I can buy in bulk?
More than likely or an animal that pooped in your yard. You should see what grows in our pig pastures. Pumpkins, squash, peppers you name it. Whatever I get from Twin Pond farms they poop out the seeds and it’s in a natural fertilizer for them to grow in.
This makes sense, might also explain why I was fighting ******* lima beans earlier this spring.
Check the website for Oceangro for the closest location for you. Good luck!
I've been hearing stories of these bio solid fertilizers (not specifically oceangro) causing damage to farmer fields after a few years. Have you heard anything about that?
Maybe I was not clear.
I think we have 4 or 5 applications- Spring, which I assume is pre-emergent/weed control, and then 4 more.
Oceangro is simply a fertilizer, correct? That's what it appears to be from their website.
Sorry I misunderstood. Yes, Oceangro is just a fertilizer. I use liquid pre-emergent (Dimension), and liquid weed control from Domyown pest control which is online. If I’m going to seed I use Mesotrione as the pre-emergent.
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Here are the store finder links for Lesco and Johnathan Green products. I usually get my Lesco products at a landscape supply house near me.....
i heard it on two different podcasts but it was anecdotal so wasn't sure what to think of it.
Yea, so many people have agendas these days it’s hard to know what to believe. I tend to look for university extension info.
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Agree, but they were on regenerative agriculture podcasts, who tend to be supported of this type of product. One guy was a farmer and he said it destroyed one of his fields in 3 years. But they quickly moved on to another subject so no idea why it happened.
Bad jokes ahead. . . .
OceanGro tried to trademark "We don't give a **** about your lawn" but it was rejected as misdescriptive.
You sure those were not SODcasts.
OK, back to my day job.
Thanks, I think this will work for me. I think we were hit $800-900 per year for 4-5 applications by a service, but we expect a big price increase because our little company was bought out by a big company. My quick estimate for 15,000 SF was that by doing it myself I could cut the $800-900 cost of in half.
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I think your estimate of cutting it in half is quite reasonable. My lawn is about 23,000 sq ft and while I haven’t tracked expenses exactly, I’m guessing I spend $400-$500 annually with most of that being for fertilizer. My liquid pre-emergent, weed control, and fungicides provide for multiple applications over several years so their cost is fairly low per application. High quality grass seed (e.g., gold tag rated) is generally expensive and typically not available in a box store.
Way, way up somewhere in this thread, I posted that I ordered Hogan Seed. IMO, the stuff is platinum tag.
Lawn looks fantastic after 7 years. Small issue is I get an outbreak (and larger patches) of POA each spring, but it goes away by early June, and I can live with the short POA invasion. The Hogan seed has made a very lush, thick lawn. So lush and thick, my mower chokes on it sometimes.
And I did check the sellers for Jonathan Green- they have 15,000 square foot packages for $349-399 per year for 4 applications.
Maybe when I retire, I may expand my chemical repertoire. I'm assuming by your screen name that you are retired.
Doing an early September application of pre-emergent will defiantly help fight Poa Annua. Agree with you on the seed, never go cheap on seed!
Ordered some Propiconazole 14.3 fungicide for what I believe is a fungus I have on my lawn. I see some what may be gray leaf spot? on the blade. Lots of grass that was thriving at the end of April is now dead it appears. The grass started getting browner after all the rain we got late in spring. That's when I noticed some brownish yellow spots on some blades. I do have a small bag of Scotts Disease Ex that I may put down as well as I read its good to use both. Im not sure the last time I used the Disease Ex but I do know your lawn can build up a resistance to it similar to how us humans do antibiotics.
Also sharpened the blades on the mower today. If cutting at least once a week not sure how many times this should be done a season.
Also sharpened the blades on the mower today. If cutting at least once a week not sure how many times this should be done a season.
PS I found the best grass seed to get. Scotts Turf Builder Rapid Grass Tall Fescue Mix. It started germinating in 6 days and grew in nicely. First time I had any luck with grass seed.
Goodpoint,yes, you should rotate fungicides so as to avoid the fungi building a resistance. I think I linked a list of fungicides and their”group” category maybe last year in this thread.
Sorry if you have answered this already.
Have a major Nutsedge invasion on the edges of lawn, and a couple of the POA patches (cool season grass) have started growing much quicker than the rest of the grass around it. I see Nutsedge will pop up where lawn does not drain well. Anything to use besides Sedgehammer and like products?
For the POA, what do you spray on it to keep it at bay?
Hope your summer is going well. I use Sedgehammer but have heard (but not tried) Dismiss NXT. It have an additional active ingredient that is supposed to improve control of sedges. I don’t usua
Lu get nutsedge but I have some this year and haven’t been able to spray due to heat/temper@ture. When you say “Poa” are your talking about Poa annua or Poa Trivialis? I’m guessing annua. I use Mesotrione to control it (Tenacity) and if you add triclopyr it will reduce beaching. Poa annua germinates in the late summer or early fall so it’s imperative to do a preemergent in late august or early September. It’s usually a couple or theee year battle.
Good luck!
By the way, many folks don’t recommend pulling them because it can be hard to get the nutlets. If the ground is soft and you carefully pull/dig, that’s an option.
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@phs73rc77gsm83 or anyone else. What spreader do you use for granules/seed? Any recommendations?
I had the smallest Scotts broadcast spreader when I had a tiny lawn. I switched to the Scott's drop spreader when I moved to a larger lot, but I'm not completely happy with it.
I had the smallest Scotts broadcast spreader when I had a tiny lawn. I switched to the Scott's drop spreader when I moved to a larger lot, but I'm not completely happy with it.
I have a Scott’s Edgeguard Deluxe that I think is satisfactory but not perfect. There were some ag school studies that I remember stated Anderson spreaders were the best in terms of uniformity if distribution. They are a bit pricy but I think you can get an excellent one for $300 and could spend much more if you have money buying a hole in your pocket! I think the Scott’s Edgeguard is probably fine. I prefer broadcast spreaders to drop but that’s just preference, either is fine!
Thanks, I just ordered the Deluxe off Amazon for $77. They had a 3 pack option for $313 which took an extra week to deliver??
I would also like to echo what others in this thread have said. I've quietly been following your advice for years and it's made a huge difference in my lawn. Thanks again.
As far as my drop spreader - It worked well the first year. In year 2, I'm left with 75% of the product in the bin, even after several passes. I've gone through a checklist of calibrating every time, cleaning the moving parts, weighing the product, matching to square feet, triple-checking the settings. But I still end up with a nearly full bin. The only factors I think are left is either my garage humidity or my walking speed has completely changed. Either way, I'm throwing in the towel on the Drop.
I would also like to echo what others in this thread have said. I've quietly been following your advice for years and it's made a huge difference in my lawn. Thanks again.
As far as my drop spreader - It worked well the first year. In year 2, I'm left with 75% of the product in the bin, even after several passes. I've gone through a checklist of calibrating every time, cleaning the moving parts, weighing the product, matching to square feet, triple-checking the settings. But I still end up with a nearly full bin. The only factors I think are left is either my garage humidity or my walking speed has completely changed. Either way, I'm throwing in the towel on the Drop.
Can't believe this beautiful weather we've been having after such a brutal summer. Will definetly need to have my lawn aerated & overseeded. Seems all the companies down here are in the $500 range. I did it myself for half the price renting the machine from home depot and buying grass seed for half the price but told myself never again lol
Our lawn has held up really well except for a couple of very small dry spots that browned out. Our biggest issue, which I noted above, was a nutsedge invasion that I did not spray, but meticulously pulled up the tall, light green stalks over the course of the last few weeks. Saw several other lawns that had much worse nutsedge problems.
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