Ot: any contractors here?
- Thread starter theRU
- Start date
shouldn't the door sill be at least marginally higher than the sub-floor or in my case slab? I have a piece of flashing that comes our over the exterior of the house, but only lays flat on the door sill. The threshold than comes down onto the flashing piece and is screwed down into the slab.
Whats happening now is that water is seeping between the flashing and threshold and my wood floors warped from the moisture...
Just seems like a really ****** installation by the builder to not protect this from water intrusion...
Whats happening now is that water is seeping between the flashing and threshold and my wood floors warped from the moisture...
Just seems like a really ****** installation by the builder to not protect this from water intrusion...
This is Newark California code http://www.newark.org/images/uploads/pubwks/pdfs/BuildingInspection/B-107_Thresholds.pdf
I have in swing door..but how do you prevent water from getting under the threshold Shouldn't there be a sill pan? Or flashing installed all the way to the finished floor with an upturn in order to create a dam?This is Newark California code http://www.newark.org/images/uploads/pubwks/pdfs/BuildingInspection/B-107_Thresholds.pdf
Caulking doesn't seem like its enough to me.
I'm not a carpenter or mason but the peeling poly seems to be where the shoes land coming in the door. There are gaps that let water down in. The way old boat guys fix such things is to get appropriately sized twine and tuck it into gaps - then poly over that.
It might be a roof problem. Is there a roof overhang or a gutter that spills over? I don't think that water should get on the threshold. If it is build such that water does spill onto it, you many need to have downward sloping flashing on top of the wood, not under the wood. I am a do it your selfer, not a builder so take my ideas with a grain of sand.
if you look at the diagram, the threshold is outside so water does and can get on it. In order to get more of a downward slope away from the house, i would have to grind down the concrete slab, which I can do, but i'm not sure if thats the best way to go.
In this video the man is trying to install a threshold on an old house. His landing is flat though.
Hopefully it is workable without needing to grind down the concrete. I actually don't agree with what the guy did to fix the gap in the bottom of his, in the video I posted. Old houses are a pita.
Your flooring doesn't look that bad. If it is not warped you may be able to lightly sand the damaged areas and rub a polyurethane on it.
This is what is happening with that wood. OP may have another problem with water not draining correctly away from the house though. As you said, that wood damage is from everyday wear and tear in a high traffic area with the addition of water dripping from shoes and not getting wiped up. This is what happens when there is no rug to step onto or top coat left on your floor to protect the wood.
i'm going to update my kitchen and will go with new flooring as a result. But before I do that i want to be sure this door issue is fixed. I want to do this the right way, not minimum code standards for California (where is never rains ) with El Nino rain storms on the way.
THIS... The wood is discolored because when it rains water comes under the threshold, and under my wood floor. The moisture is then absorbed by the wood and trys to evaporate up through the wood but is trapped by the poly coating.
Try running a water test first to see where the water is penetrating. I ran into this on one of my jobs where the school asked for a test on aluminum storefront windows to make sure the amount of water which might seep in was within tolerances.
First install a plastic barrier on the inside of the door (door is closed). Make sure the barrier is air tight. Cut a small hole in the barrier and install the dry vac hose in the hole (tape the hose around the hole). Make sure there is no openings where air can sneak out. On the outside spray water starting low at first then work your way up if needed. The dry vac will create a suction inside the barrier and will pull any water that is leaking in so you can see where the leak is coming from.
Inswing doors are very tricky because if the door is not covered by an overhang and the rain constantly hits the door. When this occurs water will sit on top of the threshold where the door meets and find any pin hole to get in.
If the water is penetrating under the threshold the best way is to caulk on top of the flashing, very generously. Also a make sure you caulk the where the screws penetrate the flashing.
Make sure your weathering under the door is in good shape and there is no daylight.
This is a bit ugly and a stub your toe hazard but you can use a larger rain drip on the outside. I saw on your pic you have a door sweep with a built in rain drip.
Lastly make sure your concrete pad is not pitching towards the door.
First install a plastic barrier on the inside of the door (door is closed). Make sure the barrier is air tight. Cut a small hole in the barrier and install the dry vac hose in the hole (tape the hose around the hole). Make sure there is no openings where air can sneak out. On the outside spray water starting low at first then work your way up if needed. The dry vac will create a suction inside the barrier and will pull any water that is leaking in so you can see where the leak is coming from.
Inswing doors are very tricky because if the door is not covered by an overhang and the rain constantly hits the door. When this occurs water will sit on top of the threshold where the door meets and find any pin hole to get in.
If the water is penetrating under the threshold the best way is to caulk on top of the flashing, very generously. Also a make sure you caulk the where the screws penetrate the flashing.
Make sure your weathering under the door is in good shape and there is no daylight.
This is a bit ugly and a stub your toe hazard but you can use a larger rain drip on the outside. I saw on your pic you have a door sweep with a built in rain drip.
Lastly make sure your concrete pad is not pitching towards the door.
Since you are going through effort of putting a new floor in, consider putting in a new outswinging door. That may solve a lot of your long-term problems.
There is a good seal between the Door and threshold. The issue is between the flashing and threshold. I've already confirmed that water goes through there. I built a dam with silicone along the edge of the wood floor and put everything back in place with good silicone seal around all gaps and openings. I know it will hold for now, but it still doesn't seem like the correct long term solution
Last edited:
Mason contractor here. You are always going to have a problem if your exterior concrete slab is the same height as your door(Concrete is porous). Water will penetrate do to wind and in the Winter snow will pile up melt and infiltrate the door. Your outside concrete patio should be at least 4" lower(so you don't have what we call a trip step) than the door, this will prevent water penetration. In my opinion have your concrete patio redone and lower the height with proper 1/4" pitch away from the house. .
Last edited:
I do have 5" from the patio to the door entry. Do you think grinding down the concrete to create the pitch is the way to go and keep current set up? Or install a new door with a sill pan? It Socal, so no snow.
I just noticed that in your picture you have a 5" riser so your patio is fine. What is with that black tray pan(Flashing?). If there is masonry under that simply take that it out. Cut it as close to the door as you can. A simple slice with a razor blade will do if it is thin, they you can peel it off(wear gloves) Take a hand held grinder with a grinding disk($40) grind it down on an angle. Use clear masonry chalk(Flash Matte makes an excellent product) against the door where the wood meets the masonry. Use one designed not to harden, they are specifically made to flex with the expansion and contraction of masonry. Then simply put a wash of cement over the masonry and brush finish. No need for flashing on masonry, only flash wood, masonry should not come in contact with wood.
Thanks!
Yes its flashing, For whatever reason these homes were built in late 90's and they all have this brown flashing over the masonry. I took 3 pictures to show each piece being removed. I'll check out the masonry caulk you mentioned. I used something called Lexel which was supposed to be great for indoor/outdoor weather and water proof.
http://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/
You think im ok with using this? Or should i try the other product?
I wouldn't. Don't know the brand and it doesn't specifically state masonry on application. Go to your local big box hardware store like(Home Depot). You will find chalk that specifically says brick, masonry, metal flashing on the applications. This is what you want don't chance it with the caulking. Remember any wood exposed must be flashed so that the masonry wash(thin coat of cement over sill) does not come in contact with it.
Guess i'll have to redo it then. I got it at lowes and it says masonary, it was the most expensive caulk, so i figured i'd be good since i wasn't cheaping out. It is supposed to be good stuff.
Thanks for the tips. I was thinking grinding down would be the way to go.
If it says masonry on it don't worry then. I must have missed it don't redo. See how it works make sure it holds and stays elastic and doesn't dry out. If you see separation then redo it.