I am wanting to upgrade beyond a '63 AC D19 I have owned since 1981. I am looking at and have driven a 1975 JD 4230 with cab (excellent glass and seat, needs sound work on sides ceiling is good) a WL 42 QA loader, bucket and grapple. I have been hearing horror stories (including from a local JD shop manager) about cold starting issues with 4230s. When I went to look at it in Feb, I called the day before and it was plugged in outside along a highway that night. It started right up with temps in low 40s and rumbled like a fat cat on your lap. It had some blow by smoke from the oil cap but no pressure against my hand. I don't know anything about diesel engines and have concerns with blow by (no smoke from exhaust) and starting issues. This tractor has an 8 speed power shift that shifts smooth as a prom queen's butt and has 3 hydraulic outlets and guessing 900+ pounds of weights on the inside of the rims. I like this machine but I am leery of starting and engine issues (it has about 10,800 hours, HR meter works). Any thoughts from you old boys that go back to 4230s?
Acreage tractor upgrade
- Thread starter dragonraider1
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If the tractor hasn't been pulled hard or abused 10,000 hrs on a diesel shouldn't be a problem.
Do you need that much horse power or this a pretty good deal? The pros about a diesel is if you put additive in your fuel it won't go bad and your engines run along time the cons is repairs are usually more expensive than a gas burner. IMO an older diesel will have blow by doesn't hurt anything have a 460 farmall with blow by doesn't use oil also been around a Massey 65 with a Perkins diesel it also has blow by but doesn't burn any oil
Do you need that much horse power or this a pretty good deal? The pros about a diesel is if you put additive in your fuel it won't go bad and your engines run along time the cons is repairs are usually more expensive than a gas burner. IMO an older diesel will have blow by doesn't hurt anything have a 460 farmall with blow by doesn't use oil also been around a Massey 65 with a Perkins diesel it also has blow by but doesn't burn any oil
Had a JD 404 I believe that was the number power unit it had some abuse had 12,000'hrs on it when it was traded off it would use a quart of oil every 40-50 hrs the dealer cleaned it up changed filters that's all that was done and resold it it ran for another five years I was told
Do yourself a favor and buy a pre-def fluid late model front assist Kubota with a cab on it and A/C. There are a ton of those things that get traded in every year from people that trade them like it was their wife's SUV. I fought an AC 170 and then a couple of older IHs until I wised up and bought a new Kubota. Wish I had done it from the start. You can get by with a little less horsepower with the front assist. I had a I think M7040? that I used for years. I've got a 110 utility now that is kind of my go to acreage tractor. Great tractors, no repair bills, easy to use.
I have a JD 4045E (new). I also have an old 1955 JD. Obviously, the new one has some features the old one lacks but I prefer the old one. All of these new tractors have the hydrostatic transmissions which are a pain to maintain. So I would go with a pre hydrostatic older model that hasn't been beat to hell
I have not contacted the previous owner ( last 15 yrs) yet but my neighbor's employee's in laws have because they are from the same area. It was used mostly in support of a stock cow operation in feeding and the hayfield. I have some cows myself and this 4230 would be a vast improvement over an open platform D19 when it is 10 below. My biggest concerns are with starting issues. My old D19 will start scooped out of a snow bank if it has gas line antifreeze in the tank. The dealer's offer is $13000 (w/ the loader), rear tires are only about 50% IMO, fronts almost new. Sheet metal is faded but straight from top to bottom and head to toe, no leaks on the loader cylinders, one wet spot on 3 point. I have heard that if you don't have a heated shed then drain the oil and bring it into the house with the battery if you want a 4230 to start in the morning. This is the worry.
Where do you live? Have the dealer install a engine block heather if it doesn't have one already make sure
You use a 50/50 blend of number 1 and number 2 diesel if your really concerned uses straight number 1.
We use a 460 farmall diesel to run loading auger in the winter have a bock heater it will start outside in zero weather and I've never ran across a diesel that starts any harder than a 460 maybe my Massey 65 with a Perkins I have to plug it in when it get to 32 degrees it's in a open Shed again if I plug it in it will start in subzero weather
You use a 50/50 blend of number 1 and number 2 diesel if your really concerned uses straight number 1.
We use a 460 farmall diesel to run loading auger in the winter have a bock heater it will start outside in zero weather and I've never ran across a diesel that starts any harder than a 460 maybe my Massey 65 with a Perkins I have to plug it in when it get to 32 degrees it's in a open Shed again if I plug it in it will start in subzero weather
Make sure the dealer kicks in new batteries with the best cold cranking amp new batteries are a big plus also
NE NE. It already has a block heater and was plugged in the day I started it and run it through some paces. This weekend I travelled to Eastern Iowa for an Uncle's 90th B-party. He never had a 4230 but doesn't remember hearing horrible stories about them. He did have both a 4430 and a 4440 at the same time and he said the 4430 wasn't really hard to start but it took more precautions in cold weather than the 4440 did. He also said if he had to make do with only one tractor he would take the 4430 over the 4440. This amused me because the 4440 has seemed like an overpriced "corvette thing" to me in my search about 1970-80's tractors in 2017.
The only thing I herd negative about the 4430 was the early models had either transmission or rear ended
Issues. If you think 4440 is over priced check out the 4020's. What are they asking for the 4230?
Issues. If you think 4440 is over priced check out the 4020's. What are they asking for the 4230?
I've already said. BTW, I would have given up both your nuts and your sister's virginity for a couple seasons of operating a 4020 in 1970.
With or without a loader.That's really kind of you to give away my stuff what about your sisters virginity? I think there a little high
On there price, a friend of mine bought a really sharp looking one with 80% rubber on all 4
Had some repairs done by previous owner for around 9000 but didn't have a loader
what about your sisters virginity? I think there a little highOn there price, a friend of mine bought a really sharp looking one with 80% rubber on all 4
Had some repairs done by previous owner for around 9000 but didn't have a loader
Many other companies manufacture tractors. I am not a professional in this field, and I can't help you with a proper answer to your question. Still, as far as I can tell, there are many websites like https://www.machinerydealer.co.uk/compact-tractors-for-sale/ where you can buy any tractor you want at a pretty reasonable price. My father bought himself a tractor from this website. He also managed to get a discount as being a new customer.
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Thank Jebus this thread was bumped. I've been on pins and needles for the past 4.5 years waiting to learn more.
Personally I would never buy a used tractor that was used as a loader tractor. I know how loaders get used around my place over the years and they tend to be the most abused and worn out just because of the nature of the beast.
If you like a particular model find one that hasn't sniffed a loader. If you're never going to use it much you might get along fine. But, imo, used loader tractors in general just aren't as solid as their non loader siblings
If you like a particular model find one that hasn't sniffed a loader. If you're never going to use it much you might get along fine. But, imo, used loader tractors in general just aren't as solid as their non loader siblings
I’d have to disagree. Back when I use to farm, what really made the tractor snort hard was tilling the ground, not using the loader. We had a 4240 with a Du-Al loader that never broke down. Discing corn fields was a lot harder on the motor though.
Not going to disagree that you can and most generally work the engine harder in the field. The engine would be my least worry as they'll usually work fine within their expected parameters.
It's the other intangibles when operating a loader tractor that tend to wear them out faster than a tractor that only does normal field work is my point.
But yes, I liked to pull them too. My all time favorite was an open station with 6 cylinder Perkins engine, turbo with straight pipe. When plowing many moons ago at night you could see glow coming out of the pipe. That was one snappy engine!!! And I still have it!!
My dad and grandpa did a lot of plowing wheat stubble with a farmall regular, he said at night the manifold would be glowing ya didn’t need a match to light a cigarette one of those good ole day things
