OT: Eternal Lawn Care Thread

[jOmega]

Historic year for crabgrass in 2025

Agreed. Why doesn't the pre-emerge do a better job at keeping it under control? Any idea?

 

[BigRnj]

What’s the prevailing wisdom on managing nutsedge at this time of year? Spray or wait until spring???

Bumping this one @phs73rc77gsm83 @bac2therac … others in the know? … nutsedge is a growing issue for me. Can/should I try to “start trying” to control it now, or wait until the spring? Thanks to anyone in the know.

 

[Postman_1]

Bumping this one @phs73rc77gsm83 @bac2therac … others in the know? … nutsedge is a growing issue for me. Can/should I try to “start trying” to control it now, or wait until the spring? Thanks to anyone in the know.

I believe if you kill it now it wont come back in the spring. They do have some pre emergent for nutsedge I read but post emergents work better I saw. I have used Sedgehammer before and it worked great. I had a little nutsedge this season but it is just about all gone now.

 

[BigRnj]

I believe if you kill it now it wont come back in the spring. They do have some pre emergent for nutsedge I read but post emergents work better I saw. I have used Sedgehammer before and it worked great. I had a little nutsedge this season but it is just about all gone now.

Great news … I am/was anticipating a prolonged battle.

PS - I assume that you saying your nutsedge “is just about all gone now” is due to your use of sledgehammer?

 

[Postman_1]

Great news … I am/was anticipating a prolonged battle.

PS - I assume that you saying your nutsedge “is just about all gone now” is due to your use of sledgehammer?

Actually I ran out of sedgehammer and did not use it this year. It just seemed to go away tbh. Probably the lack of rain but I haven't noticed it lately. I only had it in 1 little spot in the front of my house and same thing for the yard this year. It is easier to notice because it grows so fast compared to grass. When I really noticed it was mid July.
It is a prolonged battle. The area I have it this year is the same that I had in years past were I sprayed with Sedgehammer. I did have way less this year though. Maybe I didn't spray it good enough in years past.

 

[Knight Shift]

Actually I ran out of sedgehammer and did not use it this year. It just seemed to go away tbh. Probably the lack of rain but I haven't noticed it lately. I only had it in 1 little spot in the front of my house and same thing for the yard this year. It is easier to notice because it grows so fast compared to grass. When I really noticed it was mid July.
It is a prolonged battle. The area I have it this year is the same that I had in years past were I sprayed with Sedgehammer. I did have way less this year though. Maybe I didn't spray it good enough in years past.

That was my experience too with nutsedge. Strange that it was confined to one specific area of my lawn, which is isolated from the rest of the lawn. Prior to mowing, since the nutsedge was so much taller than the other grass in that area, when I went out to check the mail each day, I would spend 5-10 minutes pulling up the nutsedge, which has a fairly shallow root system. Mine is gone now.

As for crabgrass, on another part of the lawn, it came back with a vengeance this weekend with warm weather, but I noticed that it was a lot easier to pull out the roots with the blades this time of year. I did some weeding, and will apply my winter fertilizer in about 3-4 weeks. Overall, it was a good season for controlling weeds.

 

[Postman_1]

That was my experience too with nutsedge. Strange that it was confined to one specific area of my lawn, which is isolated from the rest of the lawn. Prior to mowing, since the nutsedge was so much taller than the other grass in that area, when I went out to check the mail each day, I would spend 5-10 minutes pulling up the nutsedge, which has a fairly shallow root system. Mine is gone now.

As for crabgrass, on another part of the lawn, it came back with a vengeance this weekend with warm weather, but I noticed that it was a lot easier to pull out the roots with the blades this time of year. I did some weeding, and will apply my winter fertilizer in about 3-4 weeks. Overall, it was a good season for controlling weeds.

I did read that pulling it can cause it to become worse because the root are tubular. Some say this isn’t true though.

I had a little more crabgrass this season compared to the past few years. I didn’t spray Prodiamine in the spring this year because it expired. I used the Lesco 19-0-7 with Dimension. That didn’t seem to work as good as the Prodiamine

 

[Knight Shift]

I did read that pulling it can cause it to become worse because the root are tubular. Some say this isn’t true though.

I had a little more crabgrass this season compared to the past few years. I didn’t spray Prodiamine in the spring this year because it expired. I used the Lesco 19-0-7 with Dimension. That didn’t seem to work as good as the Prodiamine

As noted earlier in this thread, I dumped my lawn fertilizer company, went with Jonathan Green products delivered, bought a Spyker rotary spreader, and this has been the best year my lawn has seen since moving to this property 8 years ago. It's a lot of lawn, and I have some drainage and wet areas that promote POA grass in the Spring, which I am learning to tolerate. I need to pick ups some Sedghammer for next year, but it was not nearly as annoying as the annual POA invasion.

My next lawn project is a section of the front yard which is bumpy when I mow with the lawn tractor. Going to fill the "ruts" with a 1/3 each mixture of sand, peat moss and top soil (found this online) 1-2 inches at a time to see if I can bring some of the low spots a little more up to level.

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

Bumping this one @phs73rc77gsm83 @bac2therac … others in the know? … nutsedge is a growing issue for me. Can/should I try to “start trying” to control it now, or wait until the spring? Thanks to anyone in the know.

Sorry, was down the shore this week. Prodiamine and mesotrione based products (Barricade and Tenacity) can help a bit as pre-emergents but really arent totally effective. Post emergents such as Sedgehammer are much more effective. I'd try to kill it now, apply a pre-emergent in the spring, and most importantly a post emergent such as sedgehammer when you first see it growing in the spring. often takes two maybe even three applications.

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

A lot of us have dealt with lawn fungus this year. i may have posted this a few years ago but it is worth reading, saving, and building a plan around. This is authored by RU, UK, and UW.

https://publications.ca.uky.edu/files/PPA1.pdf

 

[miket007]

Can any of you lawn experts explain this breakdown to me please seems my lawn is pretty strong, should i even lime it this winter? Thanks in advance!

Soil 1160741 Lab Number : 54826 Results For : Sample ID : LAWN Location : CLAYTON DE Extraction Method: Mehlich 3 Analysis Deficient Low Sufficient High Sufficiency Levels pH 0 25 50 75 100 6.3 Buffer pH 6.74 0 25 50 75 100 Phosphorus, ppm P 101 P Saturation 33 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 Potassium, ppm K 279 0 25 50 75 100 Calcium, ppm Ca 1262 0 25 50 75 100 Magnesium, ppm Mg 142 Sodium, ppm Na 11 0 25 50 75 100 CEC Sum of Cations, meq/100g H % Saturation 9.2 10 8 68 13 1 K % Saturation Ca % Saturation Mg % Saturation Na % Saturation 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 Recommendations In Actual Pounds of Plant Nutrients per 1000 sq. ft. Nitrogen Credit : 0 Sub-Soils : Crop : (AgroLab) Lawn, Unit/A Yield Goal : 1 2.5 0 0 N P2O5 K2O S Zn Mn B 0.00 Mg Fe Cu Lime, lbs/1000 s.f. 0 Organic Matter, % 4.24 Est Organic Carbon, % C 2.46 - Split apply Nitrogen in the fall (Sept) and spring (March) at rates less than 1lb/1,000 square feet per application. Lime applications should not exceed 50 lbs/1,000 square feet per application. Reviewed By : AgroLab/Matrix Sciences Inc 10/6/2025 Copy : 1 Page 1 of 1 Bus: 302/566-6094 Harrington, DE 19952 101 Clukey Dr.

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

Can any of you lawn experts explain this breakdown to me please seems my lawn is pretty strong, should i even lime it this winter? Thanks in advance!

Soil 1160741 Lab Number : 54826 Results For : Sample ID : LAWN Location : CLAYTON DE Extraction Method: Mehlich 3 Analysis Deficient Low Sufficient High Sufficiency Levels pH 0 25 50 75 100 6.3 Buffer pH 6.74 0 25 50 75 100 Phosphorus, ppm P 101 P Saturation 33 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 Potassium, ppm K 279 0 25 50 75 100 Calcium, ppm Ca 1262 0 25 50 75 100 Magnesium, ppm Mg 142 Sodium, ppm Na 11 0 25 50 75 100 CEC Sum of Cations, meq/100g H % Saturation 9.2 10 8 68 13 1 K % Saturation Ca % Saturation Mg % Saturation Na % Saturation 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 0 25 50 75 100 Recommendations In Actual Pounds of Plant Nutrients per 1000 sq. ft. Nitrogen Credit : 0 Sub-Soils : Crop : (AgroLab) Lawn, Unit/A Yield Goal : 1 2.5 0 0 N P2O5 K2O S Zn Mn B 0.00 Mg Fe Cu Lime, lbs/1000 s.f. 0 Organic Matter, % 4.24 Est Organic Carbon, % C 2.46 - Split apply Nitrogen in the fall (Sept) and spring (March) at rates less than 1lb/1,000 square feet per application. Lime applications should not exceed 50 lbs/1,000 square feet per application. Reviewed By : AgroLab/Matrix Sciences Inc 10/6/2025 Copy : 1 Page 1 of 1 Bus: 302/566-6094 Harrington, DE 19952 101 Clukey Dr.

this is just my opinion but a soil analysis usually comes with clear recommendations stated in a more accessble manner. id send a sample to you county or state extension service (university). looks like theyb are saying drop nitrogen in sepyember and March at specified rate. could lime or not.

 

[Knight Shift]

this is just my opinion but a soil analysis usually comes with clear recommendations stated in a more accessble manner. id send a sample to you county or state extension service (university). looks like theyb are saying drop nitrogen in sepyember and March at specified rate. could lime or not.

Any particular end to the fall fertilization window? I'm using the Jonathan Green 3 pack (maybe 4 pack)--Is late October too late (Monmouth County), or is a little later better?

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

Any particular end to the fall fertilization window? I'm using the Jonathan Green 3 pack (maybe 4 pack)--Is late October too late (Monmouth County), or is a little later better?

I like for the last fertilization to be done after top growth has stopped. i fertilized about 10 days ago with Oceangro (slow release) and will do a higher nitrogen winterizer around mid November. You should be okay, just dont want to push growth at the expense of storing nutrients through the winter. i think the last fertilization in late fall or eaarly winter is the most important.

New Jersey Fertilizer Calculator

Rutgers NJAES Fertilizer Calculator for homeowners with established lawns. Answers for Homeowners about the 2011 NJ Fertilizer Law.

rutgersnjfertilizerapp.blogspot.com

 

[miket007]

this is just my opinion but a soil analysis usually comes with clear recommendations stated in a more accessble manner. id send a sample to you county or state extension service (university). looks like theyb are saying drop nitrogen in sepyember and March at specified rate. could lime or not.

Thanks - i'll do a light lime application in late Nov/December before the hard freeze comes

 

[e5fdny]

Lime…

Why yes and why no?

Discuss.

 

[cioffineverrana43]

Lime…

Why yes and why no?

Discuss.

Liming the soil increases pH. miket007's soil is slightly on the acidic side (for happy lawns) at 6.3

 

[Knight Shift]

I like for the last fertilization to be done after top growth has stopped. i fertilized about 10 days ago with Oceangro (slow release) and will do a higher nitrogen winterizer around mid November. You should be okay, just dont want to push growth at the expense of storing nutrients through the winter. i think the last fertilization in late fall or eaarly winter is the most important.

New Jersey Fertilizer Calculator

Rutgers NJAES Fertilizer Calculator for homeowners with established lawns. Answers for Homeowners about the 2011 NJ Fertilizer Law.

rutgersnjfertilizerapp.blogspot.com

POA patches seem to be spreading.
I'm thinking of this: Digging up the POA patches and reseeding (is it too late?).
Or, after digging up the POA, filling in with patches of the same tall turf fescue lawn patches from my far back yard (our yard is deep, and we have tall turf fescue lawn behind our pool fence) which I am fine with digging up.

Any thoughts or advice?

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

POA patches seem to be spreading.
I'm thinking of this: Digging up the POA patches and reseeding (is it too late?).
Or, after digging up the POA, filling in with patches of the same tall turf fescue lawn patches from my far back yard (our yard is deep, and we have tall turf fescue lawn behind our pool fence) which I am fine with digging up.

Any thoughts or advice?

So you're talikng about Poa annua i assume. i think its probably a little late to seed. You'd likely get some germination but the question is would it get estalished enough to survive the winter. TTTF does germination quicker than KBG but again, may be late so hit or miss. i use plugs a lot in my KBG lawn. i take them from back areas or i also grow in pots and transplant them. There are various plugging tools ( e.g., pro pluger) but you could also use a bulb digger or spade. Good luck!!

 

[Knight Shift]

So you're talikng about Poa annua i assume. i think its probably a little late to seed. You'd likely get some germination but the question is would it get estalished enough to survive the winter. TTTF does germination quicker than KBG but again, may be late so hit or miss. i use plugs a lot in my KBG lawn. i take them from back areas or i also grow in pots and transplant them. There are various plugging tools ( e.g., pro pluger) but you could also use a bulb digger or spade. Good luck!!

Thanks for that. Had not known about pro-plugger. I saw one video where they used the plugger to remove the POA patch. Think it would make more sense to use a handsaw and then scoop the POA out with a shovel.

Do I need to fill in entire area with plugs, or leave space for them to spread out?

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

Thanks for that. Had not known about pro-plugger. I saw one video where they used the plugger to remove the POA patch. Think it would make more sense to use a handsaw and then scoop the POA out with a shovel.

Do I need to fill in entire area with plugs, or leave space for them to spread out?

There is a larger hexagon plugger (Miltona Hex Plugger) that is used by a lot of golf course--not cheap, though. i use a Pro Plugger. KBG spreads well and will fill in holes. TTTF, in spite of some marketing claims, does not spread well (in m my opinion). Winter grassy weeds such as Poa annua is best controlled by fall preemergents so you might want to do that to avoid it popping up in the spring. Depends on your seeding plans, though...

 

[Knight Shift]

There is a larger hexagon plugger (Miltona Hex Plugger) that is used by a lot of golf course--not cheap, though. i use a Pro Plugger. KBG spreads well and will fill in holes. TTTF, in spite of some marketing claims, does not spread well (in m my opinion). Winter grassy weeds such as Poa annua is best controlled by fall preemergents so you might want to do that to avoid it popping up in the spring. Depends on your seeding plans, though...

I"m on the fence on what to do. We purchased a Pro-Plugger, and the plugs are small (3" diameter). We may keep it for planting bulbs. Kind of alarmed with the spread of POA in the rear yard.

In the past you have recommended Dithiopyr as a pre-emergent. I checked the label of the Jonathan Green Crabgrass preventer, and it has 0.125% Dithiopyr. I was probably a little late with that application and missed the germination window, and I am certainly too late for the fall window.

I see that you have recommended Dimension in the past, which is 0.19% DIthiopyr. My lawn is tall turf fescue, a cool season grass, and Grok (AI) suggests Prodiamine (e.g., Barricade 65WDG).

Rethinking my plan- should I try Barricade plus my usual application of the Green Crabgrass preventer in the very early spring, with another application of Barricade in late August?

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

I"m on the fence on what to do. We purchased a Pro-Plugger, and the plugs are small (3" diameter). We may keep it for planting bulbs. Kind of alarmed with the spread of POA in the rear yard.

In the past you have recommended Dithiopyr as a pre-emergent. I checked the label of the Jonathan Green Crabgrass preventer, and it has 0.125% Dithiopyr. I was probably a little late with that application and missed the germination window, and I am certainly too late for the fall window.

I see that you have recommended Dimension in the past, which is 0.19% DIthiopyr. My lawn is tall turf fescue, a cool season grass, and Grok (AI) suggests Prodiamine (e.g., Barricade 65WDG).

Rethinking my plan- should I try Barricade plus my usual application of the Green Crabgrass preventer in the very early spring, with another application of Barricade in late August?

Barricade is fine. Yes, do an early spring and late august application. I do an early spring, second application June, then early septmeber application for Poa annua and other grassy weeds around lte august or early September. i agree the pro plugger has a small diameter but it works well to transplant KBG.

 

[BigRnj]

@phs73rc77gsm83 quick request for some advice… is it too late for fall fertilizer (I’m thinking Ocean Gro), and is it too late for applying a fall/winter pre-emergent (if not too late any recommendations for brand using a drop spreader). THANKS as always!

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

@phs73rc77gsm83 quick request for some advice… is it too late for fall fertilizer (I’m thinking Ocean Gro), and is it too late for applying a fall/winter pre-emergent (if not too late any recommendations for brand using a drop spreader). THANKS as always!

My grass is still growing but it's close to stopping. i wouldn't want to "push" top growth now so I think I'd hold off on the Oceangro until Spring. i do my winterizer around thanksgiving or early December. Its on the later side for fall/winter pre-emergent but it wont hurt anything so id go ahead and drop it (might not be as effective as youd dlike, though). Sorry, i havent used a drop spreader in decades so can't offer any suggestions there. Good luck!

 

[miket007]

I have a yard full of leaves and my lawn care company is coming out to spray winter fertilizer on the 24th. Gotta get rid of them if not i'll just cut them down which will more then likely get in the way of the liquid fert....

 

[miket007]

Very odd when I went out this morning with the rain this was like the first time this year I saw worms in my driveway.

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

I am mulching most of my leaves and leaving them on the lawn. Putting some in a mulch pile.

 

[miket007]

I am mulching most of my leaves and leaving them on the lawn. Putting some in a mulch pile.

I got all my leaves up and did my last cut for the winter. I normally have my height setting at 4 but took it down to 2.75 for the winter. The amount of clippings on my lawn is mind blowing so i hired someone to get it up for $200 which i'm not happy with but that much clippings left on the lawn over the winter will kill it. Need to figure out a way to catch these clippings so i don't have to pay for it. Years ago i saw a fella that had some sort of large parachute type of bag attached to his lawnmower...

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

I got all my leaves up and did my last cut for the winter. I normally have my height setting at 4 but took it down to 2.75 for the winter. The amount of clippings on my lawn is mind blowing so i hired someone to get it up for $200 which i'm not happy with but that much clippings left on the lawn over the winter will kill it. Need to figure out a way to catch these clippings so i don't have to pay for it. Years ago i saw a fella that had some sort of large parachute type of bag attached to his lawnmower...

i use an Xmark multching mower and also have a Billygoat leaf vacuum that also mulches. i try to keep up with it rather than let the leaves pile up. With about a dozen mature oak trees and some others, its a challenge no doubt.

 

[Knight Shift]

i use an Xmark multching mower and also have a Billygoat leaf vacuum that also mulches. i try to keep up with it rather than let the leaves pile up. With about a dozen mature oak trees and some others, its a challenge no doubt.

Do you lower the cutting height on your last cut to 2.5 inches?

 

[miket007]

Do you lower the cutting height on your last cut to 2.5 inches?

That's what the experts recommend so the lawn doesn't get any winter diseases...

 

[Postman_1]

Every time I think I do my "last cut" mid November before the Christmas lights go up we end up getting a late warm week and I gotta cut again in December. As far as mulching leaves I get the majority of my neighbors leaves, I don't even have any big trees on my property. I will mulch them if it's just a few. If the yard is covered they will get bagged and dumped.

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

Do you lower the cutting height on your last cut to 2.5 inches?

yes i do.

 

[e5fdny]

Every time I think I do my "last cut" mid November before the Christmas lights go up we end up getting a late warm week and I gotta cut again in December. As far as mulching leaves I get the majority of my neighbors leaves, I don't even have any big trees on my property. I will mulch them if it's just a few. If the yard is covered they will get bagged and dumped.

Same.

I get ALL of them and do not have a deciduous tree on my property.

They come down the block, stop (LOL) in the street and then come up my driveway.

I even added a picket fence on the other side hoping that they would pile up on my neighbor’s driveway and yard instead. But nope, he has some short privet hedges along his front close to the sidewalk line that give him a buffer.

 

[Knight Shift]

That's what the experts recommend so the lawn doesn't get any winter diseases...

I've seen it, and have never done it without problems

yes i do.

Will cutting to 2.5" eliminate POA Annua?
----Yes, I know it will not, but a lawn nut can dream. Going out right now to bag leaves and mow with the push mower at 2.5" for the first time on this property.

 

[Postman_1]

I ordered this today. I will be using it sometime this month.

Barricade 4FL Pre-Emergent Herbicide (Prodiamine)

Barricade 4FL Pre-Emergent Herbicide (Prodiamine)

www.domyown.com

Has anyone used spray grade ammonium sulfate? I was thinking of giving this a try this season. So many of the granular fertilizers are mostly just filler it seems

21-0-0 Ammonium Sulfate Lawn Fertilizer, Nitrogen + Sulfur

Granular ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) delivers quick nitrogen and 24% sulfur to jumpstart green lawn growth and improve soil.

lawnsynergy.com

 

[bigbirdru]

I have a small yard but my grass got damaged by some kind of fungus last year. Pretty sure it was pythium. Anyone used something for pythium before?

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

I have a small yard but my grass got damaged by some kind of fungus last year. Pretty sure it was pythium. Anyone used something for pythium before?

https://publications.mgcafe.uky.edu/files/PPA1.pdf

I think i posted this before but this is an excellent paper on fungicides, various fungi, best practices, etc. I’d start. with azoxystrobin (active ingredient in Heritage) and be sure to rotate products (again, see paper).

 

[phs73rc77gsm83]

I ordered this today. I will be using it sometime this month.

Barricade 4FL Pre-Emergent Herbicide (Prodiamine)

Barricade 4FL Pre-Emergent Herbicide (Prodiamine)

www.domyown.com

Has anyone used spray grade ammonium sulfate? I was thinking of giving this a try this season. So many of the granular fertilizers are mostly just filler it seems

21-0-0 Ammonium Sulfate Lawn Fertilizer, Nitrogen + Sulfur

Granular ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) delivers quick nitrogen and 24% sulfur to jumpstart green lawn growth and improve soil.

lawnsynergy.com

i spray pre emergentsbut have not used spray fertilizer. Should be fine just follow directions. note the product you linked is nitrogen only/